Eager Anticipation

Well, this morning Ben and I leave for summer camp at Heritage Reservation in Farmington, PA. The troop has 49 Scouts and seven adults attending this year. Summer camp is always my favorite week of the year, providing an opportunity to relax, forget about work and help the Scouts with swimming, Scoutcraft skills and other advancements.

The fellowship I enjoy with the other adult leaders means a lot too. Friendships made in Scouting are the most meaningful I have, as the other leaders and I share values and ideals.

Scouting is the best program around for young men. I had a phone call yesterday from the father of a former Scout who's now off at college. While we were talking, the dad told me of his son's values and how they were formed to a large degree in Scouting. He thanked me for my continued work with the troop. That made it a payday for me!

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 11

Sunday, June 25 Miami International Airport

We’re on the last leg of the Troop 701 2006 Coral Reef Sailing High Adventure trip, sitting in Miami International Airport awaiting our flight back to Cleveland. It’s only 6:30 p.m. and the flight’s not until 8:30, but the guys have had enough and just want to chill. They’re currently sitting on the floor playing a card game called “Butt.”

Our final day aboard the Wyvern was a lot of fun. The dive at New Found Harbor Keys reef was great. My dive buddy Faith and I kept alive our habit of being the first buddy pair into the water and the last one out.

Highlights of yesterday’s dive included the largest lobster on the trip (it looked like it was three feet across from tentacle tip to tentacle tip), some type of urchin that was deep reddish brown with 8-10” spines, another puffy fish—found hiding in a coral formation—barracuda, tarpon, a huge variety of other fish and the granddaddy of all conch. I found a weathered conch shell that had to be 18” long and weigh 7-8 lbs. Capt. Charlie said it was probably a horse conch, examples of which he had seen previously on that reef.

After the dive, we sailed to Bahia Honda State Park, where we took a short walk to view Flagler’s Folly, a railroad bridge built in the early years of the 20th century. Capt. Charlie said Henry Flagler was determined to build a railroad that would last forever, and it has lasted nearly 100 years thus far, although it’s no longer in use. What’s different about this bridge is that a roadway was constructed atop the railroad trestle. By today’s standards it looks narrow and unsafe, but must have been a modern marvel in its day.

Later we sailed back to Boot Key Harbor and Faro Blanco Marina, where Phyllis Atha met us at the dock. We arrived too late in the day to pick up rental cars, so the crew pitched in to clean the boat, offload trash and pack up personal gear.

The captain ordered pizzas and pop for all, following which crew members took leisurely showers and walked up to US 1, where they employed flush toilets and bought refreshments. The bathhouse at Faro Blanco Marina had been in deplorable condition, so the guys felt it was worth the half-mile walk up to the convenience store on US 1.

Back on the boat, Mike led a reflection on the trip and its highlights. The guys all said they had enjoyed themselves, including the snorkeling, which surprised me to some extent given the short time most of them were in the water on each dive.

Other highlights were the time spent sailing and the fellowship they enjoyed while on a very relaxed schedule.

The biggest negative was their reaction to Key West, mostly in terms of not having enough money to do everything they wanted. Spaz, in particular, said he wished he had known to bring more money—and he was the kid who ordered a steak and shrimp dinner as his first meal upon arrival last Saturday!

During the reflection, I said how pleased I had been that the crew worked so well as a team all week, particularly when it came to the sailing and boat handling. By the end of the week, they all knew how to handle the sails, lines, winches and windlass, as well as navigating and taking turns at the helm.

Once Mike finished the formal part of his reflection, the guys continued to reminisce about things they had enjoyed. After another five minutes or so, Brian suggested playing cards, so the bubble of the reflection was finally burst and everyone’s attention turned again to having fun.

During the night, we had one more thunderstorm, which drenched the guys sleeping on deck and in the cockpit. Once again, several of the crew members reorganized the bunks in the middle of the night, moving duffel bags to clear space to sleep. The storm continued through most of the night and led into a grey, drizzly dawn.

Shortly after dawn, Capt. Charlie, Faith and I took a cab to Marathon Airport to rent our cars, returning to the Wyvern with breakfast. We loaded gear into the cars, cleaned up the last things on the boat and said our goodbyes to Capt. Charlie.

A smooth departure wasn’t in the cards, though, as I heard Matt call out: “Mr. Wollet, the car has a flat tire.” Sure enough, the right rear tire was completely flat. Matt, Todd and Spaz took charge immediately, working together in the rain to change the tire in minutes. Once again, we said our goodbyes to the captain and were finally on our way. After a quick stop at Marathon Airport to exchange cars, we headed northeast up the Overseas Highway for Miami.

Our first destination was the Dolphin Mall, where we rented a lane without any wait and did our traditional extreme bowling. Spaz had the highest score at 147. Brian had 108, Todd had 100, Greg had 110, Mike and Faith each had 83, Matt can’t remember his score, nor can I mine—although I think it was in the mid- 70s.

Following bowling, we went to a fancy Brazilian steak restaurant, where the guys were amazed the fixed-price menu included all the meat they cared to eat. Garlic sirloin seemed to be the favorite, followed by flank steak, filet mignon and sliced sirloin. Bacon-wrapped chicken was marginal, as were the lamb chops. Preceding the entrees was a salad buffet and a selection of desserts also was included. Several of the crew ordered a la carte desserts as well before surrendering.

A walk through the mall enable everyone’s lunch to settle and gave the guys one last chance to hang out without the adults around. We all met up again about 4:30 p.m. at an FYE store and I gave them the option of driving through Miami Beach or going early to the airport. Exhausted, they chose the airport.

It’s now approaching 7:30, so we only have an hour until our flight. The guys are all going to Starbucks. Faith and I are at the gate with our gear, and I’m getting a bit tired, so it seems like an appropriate time to close this final chapter of the journal. The parents will meet us at Cleveland Hopkins and our adventure will officially end just a couple of hours from now.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 10

Saturday, June 24 Anchored in New Found Harbor

It amazes me what level of discomfort the guys on our crew will endure for a night’s sleep or even a nap. They aren’t even forced into it, but do it simply for convenience.

Faith and Brian were assigned the V-berth upon arrival, but Brian hasn’t slept a night there, preferring the cockpit or a hard deck rather than a comfy mattress next to his mom.

When I woke up this morning, Mike was sitting upright in a swivel chair attempting to sleep. His head bobbed up and down and his right arm jutted out and swayed. Since I awoke and saw him like that, I rolled up my sheet and stowed it, then woke Mike and told him to stretch out in my area for a couple of hours.

My bunk (the settee in the main salon) is not luxurious by any means, but after the captain’s stateroom and the V-berth in the forward stateroom, it’s probably the most comfortable spot on the boat. Close to 7’ long and 2’ wide, it’s been very adequate for me.

Next come three canvas bunks. Capt. Charlie fashioned side supports out of 2” galvanized steel pipe, the ends fitting into rounded slots in a frame he also made. The canvas bunks can be stowed during the day, then unrolled for use.

Last night all three went unused, two of them left stowed away and the third used for duffel bags. Had the guys wanted some semi-comfortable space, the bunks could have been unrolled quite easily.

Three of the guys have been sleeping on seat cushions in the cockpit, always a favorite, and the others have slept directly on the deck. Being as young as they are, I guess they prefer just to crash “as is” rather than spend two minutes rearranging duffel bags to have a proper bunk.

Yesterday we snorkeled first at Western Sambo, which was a nice spot. Nevertheless, the reefs are starting to blend together and I can’t recall anything distinctive about Western Sambo reef.

On the run from the Sambos to Looe Key, we were trailed for several minutes by a pair of dolphins or porpoises. These guys were dark grey with some mottled spots of darker grey. I’m uncertain what species they were. They swam alongside the boat for a while, coming out of the water on their left sides so they could angle their right eyes at us. It’s quite cool to think such smart marine mammals were checking us out.

The second dive of the day, at Looe Key, was more enjoyable than the first one at Western Sambo. Earlier in the day, while cooking lunch, Brian accidentally dropped a can of chile on Mike’s foot, making his little toe a bloody mess. As a result, Mike stayed aboard the boat while Brian joined Faith and me diving at Looe Key.

Faith had been hoping to see another shark so she could capture it on film, but that didn’t occur yesterday. As we swam to the shallows, though, we encountered an angled slab of coral that sheltered a huge lobster. Its tentacles had to be at least 18” long. It hid its body in the formation but clicked the tentacles in front of us as we approached. A second lobster poked out from the base of the formation. Faith took a couple of lobster shots, then we moved on.

We saw several barracuda and a pair of long, thin fish that may have been tarpon, and then Brian spotted a large stingray. He told us later it was several times larger than the one spotted earlier in the week.

The highlight of yesterday’s dives was seeing a lone sea turtle, something I had not seen previously. Using its feet like wings, it seemed to fly among the coral, very graceful.

The last memorable fish I spotted appeared to be wedge-shaped, with a large flat head, probably 8-10” wide, followed by a wide body that tapered quickly to a thin tail. I’m not someone who knows fish, so it would be speculation to say what species it was.

Aside from the major fish spotting, what I’ve enjoyed immensely on these dives has been floating on the surface in the shallows (at least when it’s calm), observing the small fish. Some of them are smaller than my thumbnail, but thrive in the same ecosystem that supports barracudas, stingrays and sharks. The little fish, by and large, are the most beautiful. The coral formations in which they live are so intricate and delicate, an amazing creation.

Greg and Mike both asked me yesterday for some cortisone cream from my first aid kit, as they’ve each developed rashes on their forearms. Faith suggested it could have been from the canvas bunks, sleeping on bare seat cushions or something other that the sun. Capt. Charlie also gave Mike and Greg a bottle of Lidocaine lotion to use. Late in the day, both guys said their arms had improved.

Faith, Brian, Mike and I have done a fair bit of reading on this trip. Mike, Brian and I brought iPods too, so we’ve had tunes for entertainment. Last night Mike played some comedy using his iPod and Brian’s speakers. The Jerry Seinfeld and Jeff Foxworthy skits were funny and suitable, but I did not care for the routine of a comedian named Dane Cook. I’m not a prude, but as I have aged I find cursing to be offensive, particularly those things that are blasphemous or graphically sexual.

The most enjoyable social activity we’ve all taken part in is card playing. The guys attempted to teach me euchre, which I enjoyed. Perhaps I can practice before the big tournament at summer camp.

The other game we learned (I think Greg or Spaz may have taught us) is “31.” The captain in particular seems to delight in knocking the table when he believes his hand will be better than someone else’s hand. It’s a good, fun, easy game I will try to teach my family.

I phoned the woman at the Avis counter in Marathon yesterday to reconfirm our reservations and discuss pickup times for the cars. She said we can get the cars either this afternoon or tomorrow morning. All we have to do is let her know when we want them.

Phoning about the cars is another indication the trip is drawing to a close. We had all looked forward to it so much and, at least for me, it hasn’t disappointed. Yesterday Greg said the highlights for him had been the airboat ride and Monkey Jungle. I guess he just doesn’t care for boats and water. Matt, Todd and Spaz all seem to have enjoyed our cruise, with Matt getting the most of being aboard a sailboat. Mike and Brian also appear to enjoy themselves and are the most expressive about it. That isn’t to say Spaz is not expressive, but his enthusiasm overflows most often when talking about meals or a card hand.

The captain said we could snorkel at New Found Harbor again this morning, then head over to Bahia Honda State Park where the guys could go ashore. I suppose we’ll head back to Faro Blanco some time this afternoon, then start cleaning the boat and getting ready for the trip home. My hope is that the guys really take charge of cleaning the boat, not only so the captain doesn’t have to do it, but also because many hands make light work.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 9

Friday, June 23 Anchored in Key West Harbor

It’s a brilliant morning; the sun is rising quickly in a sky nearly devoid of clouds, the boat rocking gently in the harbor. It’s quite a contrast to last night, which was marked by severe thunderstorms and rain, punctuated by a lightning strike nearby.

After dinner, we sat around the boat. While the guys played cards, I read a magazine, called Kathie and later Don. I told him some of the highlights of the trip thus far and wished him safe travels on the high adventure trip to Maine.

Spaz baked a delicious pineapple upside-down cake, made with Bisquick. Not a piece was left, so I think everyone else enjoyed theirs as much as I did mine.

As the crew prepared for bed—about an hour and a half after I had turned in—Mike dropped one of the galvanized steel pipes used to make the berths. The pipe knocked over Charlie’s floor fan as it crashed to the deck. Following that commotion, I heard a sound like a fuse burning, followed nanoseconds later by a huge flash and a simultaneous roaring thunderclap. I don’t recall ever having been so close to a lightning strike.

Charlie has suggested that we head back toward New Found Harbor today, part of the eventual return home. It’s Friday and will be our last full day at sea. Even though we will sleep on the Wyvern for two more nights, tomorrow we will probably be tied up back at Faro Blanco Marina.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 8

Thursday, June 22 Underway toward Key West

The day went quickly today—and it’s already Thursday. The week is more than half over.

We motor sailed out to Sand Key after leaving Key West this morning. There we snorkeled in water 4-15 feet deep. Its ecosystem was different again from the other reefs we’ve visited. Like Sombrero Key, there was a lot of rubble in large areas, but there were also spots with intricately interlaced green and yellow coral. It didn’t look like brain coral per se, but was similar nonetheless.

Mike saw two sharks, while Faith and I saw a school of 5-6 large, rainbow-hued fish swimming with 15-20 similar fish that were bright blue. The variety of fish in these tropical waters amazes me.

Spaz is cooking shrimp and rice stir-fry tonight. He’s got an enormous pot of rice going and initially rebuffed the captain’s suggestion to remove some of the rice and add water. Charlie is such a patient, easy-going guy, while Spaz is such a know-it-all. Eventually, though, Spaz sees the wisdom in the captain’s recommendations, as he has spooned out several big spoonfuls of rice into the trash.

Matt has been instrumental in handling the sails. He’s observant of the sails and the wind changes and will move quickly to tighten up a line, adjust the jib or otherwise trim the sails. Whenever I joke with him about how jealous his dad Ken must be, Matt breaks into a characteristic broad smile and agrees.

Mike also seems to enjoy the sailing, especially piloting the boat. He is good with the captain’s directions at the helm, such as when approaching a mooring ball or navigating the boat to hoist anchor.

Todd makes a great deckhand. He often follows Matt’s lead and sometimes initiates suggestions. He remains quiet most of the time but seems to be enjoying himself.

Greg never says much, whether it’s about the dives or any of our other activities. He and Brian have spent a lot of time below deck, either reading or just chilling. I think Greg is now getting used to the dives and is more confident in his swimming abilities.

Brian is so funny, but without intending to be so. He swims fast and furious toward a shark or barracuda, but still gets freaked out by a school of tiny fish swimming around him.

Three of the guys got henna tattoos in Key West yesterday. Spaz has the name Laura on his back, just below his neck. He said Laura and he both have a bit of a swearing problem, so they made a bet to see who could refrain from swearing the longest. Spaz lost the bet, so he had to get her name tattooed on his back.

The technology never stops! Brian took a photo of Spaz’s tattoo with his cell phone and promptly emailed it to Laura, who dubiously suspected it had been done with a Sharpie marker. The guys all vouched for Spaz that the tattoo was real, but probably didn’t tell Laura it was inked in henna.

Greg had the initials GTR tattooed on his leg, an abbreviation for his band, Gnarly Tree Roots. Good thing we told the parents in advance about henna tattoos, as Greg’s mom Nancy would not approve of a permanent tattoo!

Matt is the third member of the crew to get a tattoo, a sensible marlin or sailfish on his arm.

While I’ve been writing, Spaz finished dinner and we’ve arrived in Key West harbor, but I need to relay one more story before closing.

The highlight of the day came after our dive at Sand Key. We went northwest to a key called Boca Grande, which is uninhabited and under the protection of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service. We had a couple of hours on our own desert isle, complete with our own band of Gilligan’s Island castaways. Mike said we would have needed the captain’s wife Phyllis along so they could have been Mr. and Mrs. Thurston Howell III. Faith would be Ginger and I would be the professor. Brian would be the Skipper and Mike would be Gilligan. Last but not least, Greg, Todd and Matt would be island natives, leaving Spaz to be Mary Ann.

Our island was pretty cool, hot as it was. The captain ferried us over to it on the Wyvern’s dinghy, as the current in the channel appeared to be too strong to swim easily.

Moving to the east around the southern shore, we came across remnants of previous visitors. I was not at all surprised to find beverage cans and bottles, boat lines and various types of floats that must have broken away from boats.

I was surprised to find what looked like a campsite with 3-4 one-gallon water jugs, a bag with two rotting oranges and orange peels, plus a can of opened—but largely uneaten—baked beans. One roll of toilet paper, rough and pink, plus a bottle saying fish oil capsules—very incongruous in such a setting.

Charlie said the site was probably used by Cubans. He said it was not uncommon for one boat to drop off a load of Cubans, then have another boat come later to retrieve the refugees and smuggle them into the U.S.

Farther down the beach we encountered something resembling a raft, cobbled together from 4 x 4s and some steel rods bolted in place. I found several packets of rehydration salts with Spanish labels, a U.S.-made PFD and some abandoned clothing.

After reaching signs saying further travel east was not possible to protect wildlife, we reversed course and headed to the northwest coast of the island. There Faith and Charlie found hermit crabs, which mesmerized them. I found a couple of coconuts, which Brian was able to break open to drink the juice, which he then shared with other crew members. One of the coconuts also had sweet, meaty flesh, which most of us sampled. Mike said the objective of his trip was complete with the finding of coconuts. For Greg, it was lounging under a palm tree on the island.

Now that we’re at anchor back in Key West, I should be able to get reception on my phone, so I think I’ll call Kathie. She left me a voicemail earlier today saying we had violent storms at home last night that may have temporarily knocked out our DSL line. Perhaps I’ll also give Don Y. a call before he heads out on The Maine Event, the troop’s other high adventure trip for the summer.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 7

Thursday, June 22 Galleon Marina, Key West

Hard to believe I’m a full day behind in my journal. We’ve just finished breakfast and are almost ready to leave Key West. Our trip is more than half over. Today we start heading back toward Marathon.

The last day has been very enjoyable, albeit expensive for the crew. Mike told me last night that several of the guys found the prices in Key West to be very high, resulting in their desire to lounge around in air conditioning at the Galleon Resort rather than explore.

Nevertheless, they did go around town, the highlights apparently being lunch at Margaritaville, a snack at Wendy’s and dinner at the Hard Rock Café. They each spent $12 for a ticket to the pirate museum and enjoyed it.

Faith and I went to the pirate museum with Capt. Charlie and Phyllis. It was interesting to read about the real pirates versus the fictional ones from Robert Louis Stevenson to Pirates of the Caribbean’s Jack Sparrow. I learned most of the real pirates had relatively short careers as brigands and most of them met Death at the end of a noose.

The museum’s artifacts were very cool, too, from 17th century weaponry to medical equipment. Many of the pieces came from a town called Port Royal, which I believe was in Jamaica, a town of saloons and brothels that was largely destroyed by an earthquake. Charlie said most of the buildings slid into the sea, where divers can still visit the ruins today.

After lunch with Charlie and Phyllis at the Hog’s Breath, Faith and I found a jewelry store where I purchased a little treasure for Kathie. We then walked through the old Key West naval base, past Harry Truman’s southern White House and toward the southernmost point in the continental United States. As we walked, the skies opened up in a deluge, forcing us to seek shelter with an Irish bicyclist and a local man under the awning of a funeral home. When the storm finished, we had to walk through huge puddles of storm runoff to get to the southernmost point marker.

Faith and I had dinner at a Caribbean restaurant where we enjoyed grilled fish, black beans, plaintains and several glasses of ice water, very refreshing after a hot day of walking.

Our crew did a great job staying together yesterday, meeting up with Faith and me at Mallory Square just after 7 p.m. We all watched several of the vaudeville acts, the best of which was a pair of young jugglers, who later told Spaz they were only fourteen years old. Another act featured a man in a straightjacket, tied in about 50 feet of chains and multiple locks and hung upside down by his feet. In a matter of minutes, he extricated himself to a round of applause.

The award for the most talkative performer goes to the sword swallower, who kept his audience baited for a good 20-30 minutes before finally plunging the sword into his mouth.

Yet another act—without a doubt the most bizarre—was a Frenchman who had cats jumping through hoops. In itself, that doesn’t sound too odd, but his behavior included talking for minutes on end to a stool, laughing eerily, bugged-out eyes, and mixing English and French in no apparent pattern. Quite the weirdo.

Once we returned to Wyvern, most of the crew went swimming at the Galleon’s pool, then played cards until it was time to retire. I was tired, so I went to bed about 11:30 p.m.

This morning I awoke early—typical for me—and walked the town for nearly two hours. I visited Starbucks for my daily fix of caffeine, then continued walking, eventually making my way back to the old seaport and the Galleon Marina. Hardly anyone was on the streets, save for the occasional walker or jogger, trash crews, merchants sweeping their sidewalks and food service delivery people. As late as 8 a.m. on a Thurs. morning, the streets of Key West were quiet. People here are perpetually on island time!

By the time I returned to Wyvern, I’m sure I walked at least 3-4 miles on top of an estimated 6-7 miles yesterday. Coupled with the activity of swimming and snorkeling, I feel I’m getting a good bit of exercise this week. Let’s hope the scales show an improvement when I get home, as I have been plateaued near 230 lbs. for far too long.

The captain has just come below deck to get some lemonade mix and said I’m missing the sights (we’re motoring out of the harbor), so I’m going to close this chapter.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 6

Wednesday, June 21 Key West Harbor

It’s another quiet morning aboard the Wyvern as I wait for the various members of our crew to awaken. The captain is up, but remains in his cabin. Faith also is up and thumbing through a magazine.

Mike and Greg are in racks here in the main salon. Some time during the night, Mike and Brian must have exchanged bunks, as Mike wasn’t inside when I got up during the night. Matt, Spaz and Brian are now asleep in the cockpit, while Todd is again sleeping on deck.

Also during the wee hours, the cruise ship Rhapsody of the Seas left its mooring near Mallory Square and set sail. Either it moves very quietly or I slept very soundly.

I had to sleep on my sides last night, as the sunburn hurt quite badly when I tried to sleep on my back. Even though I showered aboard the boat yesterday, I feel very clammy and eagerly await a shower at the Galleon Marina.

We are to dock at the marina after breakfast this morning, then turn the guys loose on the town. After we did “Rose, Bud, Thorn” and “Start, Stop, Continue” last night we all talked about their day of shore leave. Most of them are also anticipating a regular shower ashore, followed by some adventures in town. We talked about a few ground rules, including rendezvous times at various points during the day.

Some of the things they’ve mentioned doing are going to the key lime pie factory, a pirate museum mentioned by Capt. Charlie, Margaritaville and Ernest Hemingway’s house (although Todd does not appear to have ever heard of Hemingway).

Since Kathie mentioned getting some little goodie from this trip, I’ll have to look for something appropriate.

Well. Mike is rousting the crew from their bunks. The day’s activities are beginning!

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 5

Tuesday, June 20 Key West Harbor

Wow! What a day it has been. Two reef dives today and both of them were most excellent.

The first one was just outside New Found Harbor, so it took us only half an hour to get there from our overnight anchorage. The water was extremely clear and warm, and the ecosystem was completely different from the reef we dove yesterday.

There was an incredible variety of coral, ranging from small, delicate species that reminded me of a small tree branch or perhaps a sumac tree, to huge pieces looking like boulders scattered along the sea bottom. Brain coral, brilliant red fire coral, yellows, greens and purples—all alive and healthy.

In several spots, I simply floated in amazement at the depth of the coral. What appeared from a distance to be a single growth, upon closer inspection turned out to be layer upon layer of coral, not solid but successive layers grown over each other. In the depths of the structure, hundreds of fish could be seen, peeking out and retreating if a threat appeared nearby.

On that reef, Mike, Brian, Faith and I were diving together when Mike spotted a stingray skimming along the white sandy bottom, which may have made Mike’s morning. The ray traveled effortlessly compared to the awkward thrashing of us humans.

None of the crew ingested much saltwater on that dive, a fact for which I was grateful after their seasickness yesterday. I had been worried their first experience snorkeling would be a turnoff and, yes, their initial enthusiasm for today’s first dive was low. Afterwards, though, they all agreed it had been excellent.

From there we motored out to Looe Key for the day’s second dive. The seas were a slight bit choppier than the morning dive, but not as heavy as yesterday. As a result, the water was also cloudier, yet the quantity and variety of fish was probably the best yet. Schools of yellow-and-white striped fish shaded themselves underneath dive boats and swam around us without fear.

Brian spotted a shark we believed to be a nurse shark about 7-9 feet long with a dark grey body and a rounded snout. It cruised along the bottom, undoubtedly aware of us but fortunately acting oblivious.

A small dog swam from another dive boat moored nearby, so I asked a woman on the boat if her dog had come out of the water because of the shark. She said it hadn’t, but just loved to swim with them while they dove. Meanwhile, the shark cruised out of view only to reappear again several minutes later.

At Looe Key, Mike ingested quite a bit of saltwater and got sick while diving, so Faith accompanied him back to the Wyvern while Brian and I kept diving. On our way back to the boat, we saw a second shark, much smaller than the first one and difficult to identify in the turbid water.

Once we finished snorkeling, we started on a long arc to the southwest, gradually coming west then northwest until coming into harbor at Key West. I would say everyone on our crew is in good spirits as we lay anchored here this evening.

Mike is over his seasickness, but bummed out about getting too much sun on his back while snorkeling.

I’ve also got sunburn tonight. Although I was careful not to expose my back to the sun while on the boat, I had forgotten about my back while snorkeling and had neglected to ask someone to apply sunblock for me.

Well, the guys are organizing a game of “31,” so I’m going to take a break from my journal for now.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 4

Tuesday, June 20 New Found Harbor

Yesterday I stopped writing when dinner was ready, but didn’t finish my thoughts about the diving, especially the guys and their snorkeling technique. I was concerned once we left Wyvern at Sombrero Key. Six young men for whom I’m responsible, bobbing up and down in ocean waves, and some of them not knowing how to adjust their masks and snorkels, all raising my level of anxiety. I assisted Greg with his mask and snorkel, then Mike.

Spaz didn’t need help with his equipment, but did not get my earlier point about buddy checks, as he often moved off alone. He’s a good kid—and a smart one—but his cockiness and refusal to listen to others irritates those of us around him.

Matt exhibits great control and seems to be a person of great inner strength. Not proud or boastful, he’s the type of guy who shows quiet, calm competence. When one of the other guys swam too far from the group, Matt offered to go retrieve him. When Matt and Todd had dinner duty last night, Matt did nearly all of the cooking and most of the cleanup, all without complaint. Nothing seems to upset him much. Instead he focuses on what needs to be done and goes to work.

On the trip down, Matt told me he intends to pursue a career as a police officer or perhaps criminal justice. He would do very well in law enforcement.

Brian is the one in the group with the biggest heart. He is a good kid who has always been warm and friendly to me and the other adult leaders. He’s about 6’3” tall and probably weighs 220-230 pounds. He’s a wrestler and a big kid. It was funny yesterday, though, as we found out he doesn’t like being in water with fish! He did well, overcoming his fears and diving with the crew.

Faith and I learned a lot about Capt. Charlie last night too. Sitting in the cockpit listening to Kenny Chesney sing about Key West and key lime pie, Charlie told us he had been born in Hawaii and grew up in San Diego. He lived there and in the Riverside/San Bernardino area until he and his wife Phyllis decided to get out of such a congested, high-cost area.

They moved to Arkansas, in the Fort Smith area, and eventually spent 20-some years farming, raising poultry and cattle. Living off the land, they raised their children in Arkansas until deciding seven years ago to trade a life on land for one on a sailboat.

Charlie said his son was driving them to Florida seven years ago to go sailing. Charlie and Phyllis were in the back seat, with the son and his wife in front.
Apparently Charlie’s son fell asleep and hit a tractor-trailer loaded with gravel, resulting in a major accident. Charlie was nearly killed. Both of his lungs were punctured, his back was broken and his forehead was nearly scalped. A long scar on his back and another on his forehead, though not apparent due to his deep tan, remain as evidence of his misfortune.

After that near-fatal experience, Charlie says, every day is truly a gift to him. He recovered from the accident and now lives on Social Security and disability income, plus the occasional charter, which allows him to sail around the Caribbean with Phyllis.

They have been all over the Caribbean, from the Bahamas to Jamaica, Grenada and the islands of Venezuela. Besides chartering trips with Scouts for Bill Benson, they also do couples cruises. Like farming, they keep their lives simple, not owning a house or a car, getting away to Las Vegas for their own vacations every few years, and maintaining a post office box in a small town near Tampa where they have some friends.

The crew is starting to stir, so I should probably close this chapter, head up on deck and see what the day brings. For me, it’s very therapeutic to awaken early without having to rush to work. I can make a pot of coffee, enjoy the sunrise and early morning sights and sounds, be a bit introspective and decompress from the usual experiences of my life.

I’m uncertain whether the cruising lifestyle would be right for me, but it’s great to be out here for a week. The calm relaxation I’m feeling right now convinces me there has to be a better way to live than my current method of working 50-60 hours a week with little or no satisfaction. It’s time to start planning the next phase of my life.

A quick side note: As usual, I brought too many things with me. Although it’s only Tues., and I might reverse my thinking later in the week, as of now I think I’d change the following in terms of my pack list:

Leave behind:
• Second travel sheet — one seems good to last the week
• Boat shoes — one pair for use on shore would be sufficient. We’re going barefoot on the boat. Perhaps a pair of flip-flops or sandals would be useful.
• Smaller duffel bag — I knew my bag would be too big, but still I brought it!
• Flashlight — night lights are plentiful on the boat, as is moonlight.
• GPS — naturally Charlie has his own
• First aid kit — ditto
• Second bathing suit

Add:
• As of now, I cannot think of one material possession I need, but don’t have.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 3

Monday, June 19 Anchored in New Found Harbor

Quite an eventful day we’ve had. As I write this, I’m sitting in the main salon listening to “Jammin’ ” from the Bob Marley Legends album. Kathie’s cousin Scott Hatch would be proud!

We’ve just anchored for the night in New Found Harbor, just west of Big Pine Key and south of the Torch Keys. It’s one of the harbors in which we anchored three years ago, a nice quiet place safe from foul weather. As we came into the harbor, we passed a resort reminding me of Polynesia, with tiki huts jutting out into the ocean.

Matt and Spaz followed the anchor chain immediately after setting the anchor and found a lobster trap at the end. They pulled the trap up to the surface and checked out several spiny lobsters. Not only were the lobsters on the small side, they are out of season, so no lobster tails for dinner tonight!

As we left Boot Key this morning and headed out to Sombrero Key for some snorkeling, a pair of dolphins swam alongside us for several minutes. Mike and some of the other guys said it was good fortune to see them on the first day.

Diving at Sombrero Key was excellent. The visibility was awesome, with clear bottom views at depths of 20-30 feet. We saw several small species of tropical fish, as well as blue tang, yellow snapper and what I think were several large grouper in the deeper water.

The surface had quite a chop and the current was strong, which made the snorkeling a challenge for all of us. We anchored about a quarter mile from the tower at Sombrero Key and swam most of the way there, until the water dropped to a depth of 2-3 feet.

Wanting to be careful not to damage the coral, we didn’t venture too far into the shallows (nor did we want to be damaged by the coral, as some of it can be razor sharp). At one point, a marine patrol boat came up to us and warned the boys not to stand on the coral.

Most of the reef was reduced to coral rubble, inevitably the victim of a hurricane, too many pollutants, global warming or perhaps too many divers. We did see dozens of conches, more than Capt. Charlie said he had seen in any one grouping. He explained they are endangered, so it’s quite unusual to see so many at one time.

When we returned to the boat, most of the crew experienced the downside of Day One. The combination of the moderate chop, the rocking of the moored boat, the proximity to breakfast time (too little time for digestion) and having topped off breakfast with generous gulps of seawater all conspired against our hapless crew. Todd hurled first, followed by Greg (four times!) and Faith. Luckily, Brian, Matt, Spaz and I were fine. Mike had a bit of nausea for a while, but it passed. Nearly everyone, though, was exhausted from fighting the current, so once we set the sails and were underway, nearly all of us napped.

We need to spend some time working on snorkeling technique. Lots of equipment malfunctioned today, but most of it was due to user inexperience.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 2

Monday, June 19 Outside Boot Key Harbor

It’s a gorgeous morning off Boot Key. Capt. Charlie is awake below decks, something I know from the luscious aroma of coffee brewing rather than from any noise he has made. Faith is in the V-berth, Matt is on a canvas berth in the main salon, while Mike, Brian and Spaz are arranged on cushions in the cockpit.

Meanwhile Todd and Greg are stretched out on the forward deck. There is a moderate wind this morning giving a slight chill to the air, but nothing uncomfortable. I sit here writing with just swim trunks on and I’m quite comfortable. The cooler temps of the mornings will be a great way to start each day, as I know we’ll get hot as the afternoons approach.

I’ve been sitting here for about half an hour now, watching the sun climb gradually higher, feeling the gentle rocking of the boat in the current, and listening to the morning sounds on the water.

From a great distance, I hear a constant drone from a small powerboat and listen as the sound grows. I can pick out the boat as it nears, passes and makes its way out to the reefs.

Half a dozen other boats are anchored nearby, including at least three BSA boats, recognizable by the Jolly Roger pirate flags and smaller BSA ensigns. The crew of the nearest boat also seems to consist of older Scouts, all up and engaged in lively conversation. A couple of the guys on Wyvern are stirring, but no one seems too eager to rush into the day. We’re all adjusting to life on island time.

I am extremely happy to be on this trip, something of a repeat of Ben’s and my trip in 2003, yet it’s already completely different, from the members of the crew to the boat and its captain—even the marina.

Leading a high adventure trip with our troop is one of the best things I’ve been able to do in Scouting. The young men selected for these trips are the best in the troop, usually highest in rank and more experienced than younger Scouts. They have all camped, been on other high adventure trips and led the troop in one role or another.

I recognize the dynamics of this crew are completely different, so I need to exercise caution by not expecting to relive the 2003 cruise. For Faith and the guys, it’s all new, which is generally good.

There are a couple of weaker swimmers in this group—and one who is somewhat afraid of being in the water with fish. I’ll have to watch the guys carefully when we snorkel, as I don’t want them to drift away from the boat. They’re not accustomed to ocean currents and don’t realize how easy it is to become separated from their buddies or the boat.

I need to work with them on snorkeling techniques. All six of them swam yesterday without snorkels, even though most of them used masks and fins.

Greg appears not to enjoy the water much, so perhaps helping him improve his technique will give him more confidence so he will enjoy the trip.
The breeze is picking up nicely, so I’m hopeful we will be able to do some nice sailing today.

Latitudes With Attitude, Chapter 1

Sunday, June 18 Outside Boot Key Harbor

Chilling out after dinner. The guys grilled some chicken breasts served with potatoes and green beans al fresco on the deck of the S. V. (Sailing Vessel) Wyvern.

We arrived in Miami yesterday morning from Cleveland on an American Eagle Embraer regional jet. Most, if not all, of the guys had never been on a small jet previously, so their adventure began within the small confines of the jet. Since we departed so early in the morning, nearly all of us dozed on the flight, some with iPods.

After renting cars and finding our way to the hotel, we had lunch and went to Monkey Jungle, an attraction that had dozens of simians, great and small. It was advertised as a place where the humans were caged while the monkeys ran wild. As we walked down tunnel-like corridors of wire mesh, spider monkeys would drop metal bowls on chains to get fruit orts from visitors. The Scouts would put raisins, cranberries and apricots into the bowls, then watch the monkeys pull the bowls up to eat the snacks.

The most fascinating apes were the gibbons, yellowish/whitish monkeys that were in motion almost nonstop. We stood there watching the gibbons moving silently around their cage with incredible dexterity.

An orangutan and silverback eastern lowlands gorilla did tricks for the audience, but the gibbons were fascinating.

In the evening, we attempted to go bowling, but the lanes at Dolphin Mall had a waiting time of an hour and a half. We decided to return to the hotel, where some of the guys went swimming while the others watched a movie in their room.

This morning, we met at 7 a.m. for breakfast in the hotel, then checked out and made our way to the Everglades Alligator Farm in Homestead, where we saw snake and alligator shows and rode an airboat. We arrived shortly after feeding time for the snakes and got to watch several snakes as they ate whole rats. For me, the highlight was going out into the Everglades on the airboat. Starting at low speed, our driver and guide pointed out turtles and alligators in the channel and hiding in the mangroves. Then, rounding a corner, he opened the throttle and we were off, flying effortlessly through the glades. The driver handled the boat extremely well, turning complete circles and splashing the guys in the front row. As much as I enjoyed the airboat ride, it still makes me wonder whether the boat causes ecological damage to the fragile grassland. The open channels had to have been formed from repeated trips down the same path. What once was covered in watery grasslands now is marred with channels.

The Scouts on this trip are largely the same ones who went to Philmont Scout Ranch last summer, including Brian C., Matt S., Matt R., Todd D. and Greg K. Mike B., who didn’t go to Philmont, is the sixth man in the crew and has been elected as crew chief.

On the airboat, Mike and Matt (R., as Matt S. is often called Spaz) got drenched as the driver maneuvered through the grass. Matt also got a lot of mud on his shirt.

Once we wrapped up our visit to the alligator farm, we departed for the Keys, traveling down US 1, first to Key Largo, Islamorada (past the BSA’s Florida Seabase) and eventually to Marathon. We had some cell phone assistance from Capt. Charlie Atha in finding Wyvern, which was tucked away in a little-used marina near a row of dilapidated, half-sunken houseboats.

After Faith C. and I returned the rental cars and got a taxi back to the marina, Capt. Charlie gave everyone an orientation to the boat, from proper use of the marine heads to man overboard drills and cooking arrangements.

Wyvern is a 42’ Irwin ketch, which means it has two masts, the forward one (the mainsail) taller than the aft mast (the mizzen). A third sail, called the jib, is unfurled from the bow of the boat. The captain instructed the Scouts how to raise and lower the sails, set the anchor using a power windlass, and handle the various lines when bringing the boat into a dock or anchoring at sea.

The ladder from the cockpit opens into the main salon, a spacious cabin with settees, a dining table and two swivel chairs. The forward cabin contains a V-berth and head, complete with a marine toilet, shower and sink. Behind the main salon, the galley is on the starboard side, equipped with stove, refrigerator/freezer, microwave, sink and cupboards.

The navigation station is aft of the main salon on the port side and has all of Wyvern’s radios, electrical panel and other controls. Aft of the navigation table is the captain’s stateroom, complete with a second head.

After being oriented to the Wyvern, we motored outside of Boot Key Harbor to officially begin the sailing part of the adventure. The guys all took their swim tests, then Brian and Mike cooked dinner, which brings my first chapter full circle.